Our Head of R&D, Katarina Kozlikova, has written for CEW UK – the cosmetics industry’s leading professional body – on one of the most important challenges in cosmetic development: how to balance innovation, regulation and commercial reality.
Published on 7 August 2026, the piece draws on Katarina’s experience leading R&D here at Creative Cosmetics and covers the kind of decisions that sit at the heart of every development project we take on.
What the CEW UK Article Covers
Reformulation Challenges
The piece opens with reformulation – one of the most common and most misunderstood aspects of cosmetics development. When an ingredient needs to be removed, whether due to regulatory changes, retailer requirements or supply issues, there is rarely a straightforward substitute. As Katarina explains, ingredients affect multiple aspects of a formula simultaneously: texture, viscosity, stability, application and skin feel. Swap one out and you can shift all of them.
Ingredient Claims and Evidence
The article also addresses the growing complexity around ingredient claims. Consumer expectations and retailer standards can move faster than the science, and an ingredient that remains safe, effective and fully compliant can still face pressure. We believe ingredient decisions should be grounded in evidence – every ingredient should have a reason to be there, and every recommendation should have a scientific, technical or commercial rationale.
Responsible Sourcing
Responsible sourcing is covered too. Materials that share an INCI name can vary significantly in origin, processing and quality, and that variation can affect how a formula performs. Sourcing decisions need to be part of the development conversation from the start, not an afterthought.
Commercial Reality
Finally, the piece addresses commercial reality – something we think about on every project. A technically excellent formula needs to be manufacturable, sourceable and supportable over time. Suppliers change portfolios, raw materials get discontinued, lead times shift. A formulation that works brilliantly today needs to still work tomorrow.
Why the CEW UK Feature Matters
We think this kind of transparency matters. The brands we work with trust us to bring honest, informed guidance to their projects – not just to tell them what they want to hear. That means being clear about trade-offs, risks and the options actually available to them.
It’s why we’ve built our team and our processes the way we have: with experienced formulators, robust quality systems and a commitment to getting the science right before anything else.
You can read Katarina’s article in full on the CEW UK website: Balancing Innovation, Compliance and Commercial Reality.
Work With Us
If you’re developing a colour cosmetics product and want a manufacturing partner who will give you the same level of honest, experienced guidance, we’d be happy to talk.
